Thursday, December 10, 2015

What Are the Differences Between the TST 507 and TST 510 Tire Pressure Monitoring Systems?

Are you looking to buy a TST Tire Pressure Monitoring System and you can't decide between the 507 and 510 model?  Before you make your final decision, you should know there are some similarities and differences between the two that you need to consider before purchasing.

Differences between the TST 507 and TST 510 Tire Pressure Monitoring System

Let's start with the the type of sensors that are available for the units.  Both the TST 507 and the TST 510 are available with cap sensors, but only the TST 507 gives you the option to use the TST Flow-thru Sensor.  This is a sensor that you do not have to remove in order to add air to your tire.   
TST TPMS Flow Thru Sensors
TST 507 Flow-thru Sensors

Both the cap sensor and flow-thru sensor for the TST 507 have batteries that can be replaced by the user.  It is a CR1632 battery and has an average life of 10-12 months. The TST 510 cap sensor battery is not user-replaceable and must be returned to TST when it needs to be replaced (approximately every 5 years) for the cost of $19.95.

Another difference between the two is the way that you program the sensors when going through installation.  Both sensors have a code that must be entered into the monitor in order for the sensor to be identified by the unit.  The TST 507 sensor code is automatically entered when you hold the sensor next to the unit during installation; however the TST 510 sensor code must be manually entered during installation.  This isn't a huge difference since installation only happens once, but the TST 510 does take more time to install due to the manual entry of the codes.

The monitors of the units look different as well.  The TST 507 has a rectangular shape that can not sit flush on the dash without the included dash mount.  The 507 also comes with a window mount.  The TST 510 is rectangular as well, but it has a wider, flat base that can sit on the dash.  For that reason, you can use the included Velcro to affix it to the dash, or you can mount it on the AC vent using the included mount.

The TST 510 unit comes with an additional antenna that can be used in place of the short antenna in order to increase the communication between the sensors and the unit.  It has a cord so you can mount it closer to the sensors. The TST 507 does not come with an additional antenna.


TST 507 Tire Pressure Monitoring System
TST 507 Monitor with Cap Sensors

Similarities of the TST 507 and TST 510 Tire Pressure Monitoring System

Both the TST 507 and TST 510 systems are built with anti-theft devices on the sensors.  Without the included tool, someone would not be able to remove the sensors from your vehicle.  The cap sensors for the TST 510 as well as the cap and flow-thru sensors for the TST 507 have anti-theft devices. The Flow Thru sensor uses a small screw to secure it to the valve stem.

A 12 volt charger comes with both the 507 and 510 units, and both units can last 7-10 days of normal  use on one fully-charged battery. This is a great feature as you do not need to have the monitor connected to a 12 volt source as you go down the road. A hardwired kit comes with both units also for those who would like to hard wire the unit into a 12 volt source.

Both monitors scroll through each installed tire as you are driving.  You can quickly see the psi and temperature of each sensor position, unlike some systems that go to a "sleep" mode while driving and only show psi and temperature if you press a button. 


TST 510 TPMS
TST 510 Monitor

Finally, both the TST 507 and the TST 510 have an available TST Repeater.  The repeater ensures the signal from the sensor to the unit is strong.  It is recommended that a repeater be used with longer 5th wheels and for RVs with tow vehicles.   There is a TST 507 Repeater and a TST 510 Repeater.


TST TPMS Repeater for Boosting sensor Signal
TST 510 Repeater (Optional)
  
As you can see, there are 5 main differences between the TST 507 and 510 Tire Pressure Monitoring Systems, but they both have the same great performance and reliability that you would expect from a TST TPMS.


TST 507 Tire Pressure Monitoring System

  • Battery is user-replaceable  
  • Available with flow-thru or cap sensors
  • Sensor code entered automatically during installation
  • Dash mount and window mount included
  • Anti-theft device on all sensors
  • 12 volt charger and hard wiring kit included
  • Repeater available

TST 510 Tire Pressure Monitoring System
  • Sensor must be sent to TST to replace battery after 5 years
  • Available only with the cap sensor
  • Sensor codes must be entered manually
  • Velcro dash mount or AC vent clip mount included
  • Additional external antenna included
  • Anti-theft device on sensors
  • 12 volt charger and hard wiring kit included
  • Repeater available 


We also have a video on the differences between the TST 507 and 510 units, if you would like to hear more about the two systems.  



For more information on the TST Tire Pressure Monitoring System, or to purchase one of the systems or repeater, visit us at www.technorv.com or call us at 866-324-7915.

Tuesday, December 8, 2015

The Perfect Document Scanner for an RV: Your Phone!



I was recently asked to send a copy of a form to my doctor, and I wasn’t anywhere near a copy machine/scanner.  The form was time-sensitive, and I really needed to get it to them, so I started looking on my phone for the nearest Kinko’s.  That’s when it hit me.  My phone!  I quickly went to my Google Play Store and put “Document Scanner” in the search bar.  I found several choices, but decided on Tiny Scanner.  After a short download, I opened the program and had two options: take a picture or get a picture from my gallery.  I took a picture of the form using my camera being careful to take it in a well-lit area from above.  It gave me the option to crop it, then it instantly converted it into a PDF.  I had the choice to add another page to the PDF (which I didn’t need to do), or to export it.  I could place it in my Dropbox, Evernote, Google Drive, or email it.  I chose email and emailed it to my doctor that easily.   I also emailed it to myself so I could have a copy for my records.  I tried out a few more scanner apps and another great one I liked is CamScanner.  It has a lot more options to edit and share your image, which I really liked, and you can save your image as a JPG as well as a PDF. 


As RVers, we are always looking for items with multiple uses in order to save space.  Our phones have so many great uses that we may not even realize.  Add document scanner to that list now!




Saturday, December 5, 2015

How Does Wi-Fi Work and How Do I Get It for my RV?

How Does Wi-Fi Work and How Do I Get It for My RV?
WiFi Boosters for RVers from TechnoRV

Have you ever felt like Wi-Fi should be added to Maslow’s Hierarchy of needs? If so, then you must read this!

Do you ever think about how things work? Can you imagine that we talk on a cell phone to someone a thousand miles away, and somehow we just accept it? But how? This kind of stuff just blows my mind. Wi-Fi is kind of the same way. Are you kidding, I can pick up a contraption (cell phone), type in a request, and somehow the answer appears. This seems like some kind of witchcraft. I mean if someone would have told you back in the 1940s that we would be communicating wirelessly the way we do, they would probably have lined you up on the firing squad, but yet today we do it without a second thought.

As RVers, we need our Wi-Fi, so we should at least understand it. So here is what Wi-Fi is to a certain extent. Wi-Fi is a network using radio waves to communicate. Your computer or device has a component in it called a wireless adaptor. This wireless adaptor converts data (data=information that you type in) into a radio signal. This radio signal is received by a router that is programmed to understand the radio signal. Now that the router has the information in the form of a radio signal, it then converts the radio signal back to information, and then sends the request using a wired Ethernet connection to the almighty internet. Then, the internet sends the information that you requested back to the router. The router does everything in reverse, and converts the information back to a radio signal and sends it to the computer’s wireless adaptor. The wireless adaptor then converts the radio signal back to information, which is what you see as the response to your request.  

WiFi for RVers




This all happens so fast that it is unimaginable to think of what actually just happened. So this process is a two way street; there is the power to send the request, and the power to receive the response back. This is the part that can get a bit sketchy for RVers. I mean if the RV Park is going to claim FREE Wi-Fi, then certainly I should just be able to connect with no problems, right? Wrong!

So where does the problem exist? There are a few problem areas when it comes to RV Park’s Wi-Fi.  One problem lies with the RV Park, and one issue lies squarely on you. So what is the problem with the park? Usually the problem at the park is about bandwidth. 


Bandwidth is the amount of availability to the internet that the RV Park has the capacity for. If the internet was a pie, and the pie was big enough for 8 people to have a nice slice, and  there were 8 RVers in the park, then everything is fine. What if there are 15 people in   the park? You get the point here; if the park wanted to spend the money to have enough pie for everyone then they could certainly create that type of network. My experience is that parks have realized the importance of good Wi-Fi and are providing good coverage, but there are some parks that it doesn’t matter what you do, there is just not enough pie (bandwidth).


So, let’s assume the park has done their part. There is still a problem, and that is the wimpy Wi-Fi adaptor in your device. A wireless Wi-Fi adaptor is not designed to connect with a signal that is a half mile away or farther. The standard Wi-Fi adaptor is designed to connect to a signal within a short distance, like within the same house or RV. So, having an expectation to connect to the parks Wi-Fi if you are several hundred yards away is not going to happen. You can resolve this issue with a Wi-Fi booster. These devices are not that expensive and can drastically improve your Wi-Fi experience. TechnoRV sells a great solution for this problem and here is how it works.  Imagine replacing your internal Wi-Fi adaptor with something that is designed to grab the Wi-Fi signal from a long distance. This is what a Wi-Fi booster does. Here are the numbers: a typical Wi-Fi adaptor has 0.2 watt of power to send your request to the internet, while a TechnoRV Wi-Fi booster has a full 2 watts of power; this is as much as 10 times the power. Receiving this signal back from the router is done by an antenna and is rated in Db gain. A typical Wi-Fi adaptor has about 1 Db of gain, while a TechnoRV Wi-Fi booster has from 5 to 16 Db of gain. The results are in the numbers. By adding a Wi-Fi booster you can ensure that you are doing your part to receive the Wi-Fi signal from the park. Remember, if the park has not appropriated the correct amount of bandwidth, then it doesn’t matter what you do on your end, but in the majority of cases our customers are wildly please with the Wi-Fi boosting products. Here is a video I put together on the different versions of Wi-Fi boosters that we offer.



If you have any more questions, please contact TechnoRV at 866-324-7915 or support@technorv.com.  We would be happy to help you with your Wi-Fi needs!  

Thursday, December 3, 2015

What is GPS and How Does it Work?

I don’t know why I’m hung up on how stuff works this month, but GPS is another one that is worth being knowledgeable about. A good GPS system has advantages over using your iPad or similar tablet as a GPS, specifically, no cellular signal is needed to load maps, and we will talk more about this in a moment.  An RV GPS, like the Rand McNally, works by using the Global Positioning System (GPS) put into place by the U.S. Department of Defense in 1973.  The space-based navigation system works in all weather conditions as long as there is an unobstructed line-of-sight to at least 4 or more GPS satellites.  The U.S. government created the system, maintains it and provides it for free to anyone that has a GPS receiver; it does not require Wi-Fi or cellular service.   GPS consists of 3 segments: the space segment, the control segment, and the user segment. 

The space segment consists of the 24 to 31 GPS satellites orbiting the earth, each maintained by the U.S. Air Force, which are responsible for broadcasting signals from space to a user’s GPS receiver.  They are strategically arranged into 6 orbits so that at any given point on earth, at least 4 satellites are visible at all times.  Makes you wonder what the Government can see us doing, huh?  Each satellite orbits earth twice per day at about 12,500 miles above earth.



The control segment of the GPS consists of a master command station located at Schriever Air Force Base in Colorado Springs, Colorado, 12 command and control antennas, and 16 monitoring stations located all over the planet. 



The basis of GPS is time.  Each satellite is set to an atomic clock and are checked daily by the control segment to be sure they are synchronized with each other.  Their location is also checked daily; if one is not correct, the control segment removes it from the system, corrects its location, and returns it to the system.  The U.S. has committed to having at least 24 GPS satellites available in the system to users, although they have currently have 31 operational satellites in orbit.  Better to be safe than sorry, right?

The user segment of the GPS consists of the receiver, like the Rand McNally 7730 or Rand McNally RV Tablet, which receives the signals from the satellites and uses them to calculate location. By using current maps downloaded to the receiver, the Rand McNally is able to use this information to help with navigation. 

Our GPS receivers in our RV are receiving at least 4 signals from satellites at any given time and through this, can calculate our 3D position which includes longitude, latitude, and altitude.  It can also determine speed (or time).  It does this by using a process called triangulation - I know this is getting deep, but stick with me here.  By taking the location of three different satellites, it overlaps their positions and where they meet is the location of the receiver, or user. 



Rand McNally GPS System vs. Phone GPS 

A lot of people as us, "Does our GPS system require Wi-Fi or cell signal to operate?"  The Rand McNally does not require any Wi-Fi or cellular signal to operate the GPS; however, if you would like to have up-to-date weather, traffic and fuel price updates, you must enable Wi-Fi on your system.  Although your cell phone is using the same exact GPS satellites to navigate, using Google maps on your phone or iPad is not the same as using a Rand McNally and does use data to navigate. The reason for this is that your phone is not pre-loaded with the maps like the Rand McNally is, and it is having to download the map as you drive; it does this by using your data.  Because of this, if you lose cell signal while traveling then your Google maps on your cellular device will not work properly. Unfortunately the low cellular signal areas are probably the very areas that you need assistance with navigation because it is far away from a cell towers and probably on the back roads where turning instructions are crucial. Many people think they can save money and just use their phones to navigate, but be aware that simply using Google maps on your phone can drain your data throughout the month, drain your phone’s battery, and provide poor instructions in low cellular signal areas.

Regardless of what GPS receiver you use, you will always encounter occasional routing issues.  No GPS is perfect 100% of the time. There are some things you can do to ensure that your system sends you the correct way. If you have problems with your receiver, always check to be sure you have the latest maps downloaded.  The Rand McNally 7730 and RV Tablet 80 both come with free lifetime maps. In addition to updated maps, check your settings to see what you are telling it to avoid, such as tollbooths, highways, u-turns, dirt roads, etc.   Finally, some travelers compare the route given to them by the GPS to a road atlas before leaving to ensure the GPS is correct; the RV Tablet 80 has a road atlas app built-in for this convenience. 

To learn more about the Rand McNally 7730 or the Rand McNallyRV Tablet 80, visit us at www.technorv.com or contact us at support@technorv.com

Monday, November 30, 2015

Bypassing the Ballast and LED Fluorescent Tubes

RV fluorescent tubes come in two standard sizes, 18" and 12". The TechnoRV 18" tubes have two rows of LED's whereas the 12" tubes have a single row. Installing your LED tubes is a very simple process. First, remove the fixture's plastic cover. This is usually done by pushing on one of the sides until it pops clear of the side of the fixture. Next, remove the fluorescent tubes by gently pulling on them. 
The TechnoRV LED tubes are not polarity dependent so you can install them in either orientation. But first you will need to pull off the little plastic covers that are on the pins at each end. Next, push the tubes into the fixture exactly as the previous tubes were installed. Most fixtures have horizontal slots meaning you simply push the tubes up into the fixture. Some have side facing slots meaning that you have to push the LED tube in and then move it to the side to install it in the slots. If you try this you will notice that the LED's would then be facing the wrong way. The fix is to pull the plastic at each end of the tube and twist the mounting by 90 degrees. Your LED tube will then be orientated the correct way in the fixture. 

Directional Lighting

You don't generally think of fluorescent tubes as being directional. However, because their LED replacements have the LED's all on one side, they do tend to throw the light in that direction. 

The TechnoRV LED tubes allow you to go one step further. Even if you don't need to twist the ends because of your fitting, you can do the same thing to point the tube's LED's in a particular direction. Perhaps there is part of a room that needs more light, or you'd like more light over a table or food preparation area. By twisting the ends you can do just that. Just remember to pull the end as you twist (this feature is only available on the 18" tubes, not the 12"). 

Bypassing the Ballast

Almost all fluorescent tubes require some form of ballast to operate. A ballast is usually nowadays electronic and provides a high frequency AC current to the tube to increase its efficiency while limiting the current flow. 

Most LED replacements require you to bypass the ballast (i.e. remove it from the circuit). You will notice from the instructions above that you do not need to bypass the ballast with the Eco-LED tubes. This is a big advantage for people who are concerned about the ease of installation. 

The down side is that having the ballast in the circuit does reduce the brightness of the LED's by approximately 20%. If you want to get the most performance from your LED's you will need to bypass the ballast. It's not hard and we do sell a bypass kit, but it's pretty straightforward. Here's how you do it. 





Remove the Ballast Cover.

There are many different types of fluorescent fixtures. The more modern variety have a shiny ballast cover which needs to be removed by drilling out two of the rivets (or cutting if you have the right tools). 

The older variety is easier as it has a cover which can be removed just by squeezing it together. 

 
Disconnect the Ballast.

The ballast will generally have 4 wires (two at either end) which need to be disconnected (just snip through them after making sure that the light is turned off!).

Tie each end together.



The connectors at each end of the fitting have 4 wires (one to each slot). All 4 of these at each end need to be tied together using either a twist cap or better still, a terminal block (available from Lowe's or Home Depot).

Run power to each end.

Now all you need to do is to run power to each end. It doesn't really matter which end you take the +ve or -ve to, just choose which ever is easiest. Just remember that at one end the power has to go through the switch first, otherwise your light will be on all the time!

Replace Ballast Cover or Lens

Finally, replace the ballast cover (you don't have to as the LEDs all face downwards, but it does make the installation look "neater" in my opinion. Slide in the LED tubes and replace the lens cover. Switch on and bask in the bright crisp LED light.




For more information on LED Fluorescent lights, visit www.technorv.com or contact us at 866-324-7915.

Friday, November 27, 2015

What is That Smell Coming From my RV Sink?

When I decided to become a fulltime RVer over a year ago, I knew there were things that I was going to have to get used to that I had never had to deal with while living in a house.  Washing dishes to me used to mean loading and unloading them - never actually washing them; the toilets I was used to didn't require me to use my foot to flush them; and I was use to being able to actually walk into my closet instead of barely being able to get my clothes into it.  

I've adjusted to everything and then some, and I absolutely love the RV life, but time and time again, there was one thing about it that I just could not get used to...the odors coming from my sink when I turned my water on!  When you live in such a small place, any smell is pretty serious, and we kept having odors coming from the sink for no reason at all.  We would turn the water on to wash dishes or just to fill Lincoln's water bowl and a horrid smell would come up from the drain that was disgusting.  No woman wants to make effort cleaning her home only to have it stink when the water is turned on!  I started googling and searching for answers because I couldn't take the thought of my home stinking every time I turned the water on.  Something had to give.  I had no experience with the idea of carrying my sink/shower water waste with me everywhere, so I wasn't sure just what I should expect.  Was I wanting too much when I didn't want to smell anything when I turned my water on?

Needless to say, we tried everything.  We bought many grey tank treatments and tried the GEO method when we moved.  The cleaners wouldn't take care of the odor, and although the GEO method  cleaned the tank well (and I love it for cleaning the black tank), it never removed the odor once I started using the sink again. Enter my new favorite product -- Elemonate!   It is not only a grey tank deodorizer but also freshens sink/drain lines, and dissolves grease and organic sludge. Organic sludge is all of the food that comes from plants or animals that is biodegradeable.  As much as we try to keep these things from our sink drains, we all know some ends up there, and boy do they stink once they get in there -- especially in the heat! Even though I know bettter, I am definitely guilty of the lazy move of shoving a corn kernel or spaghetti noodle down the drain after a dish washing session!

Elemonate is a quick-dissolving tablet that smells like fresh lemon. One tablet is good for a 60-gallon grey tank and works for a kitchen sink or a shower drain, though we haven't tried it in the shower drain yet.  From the first time we used it, we have had NO odors coming from the sink drain, and I cook/clean in my kitchen daily.  After emptying the tanks, I just drop one in the sink and spray some water on it and it dissolves in less than a minute (and smells great while dissolving!).  From empty to full, my tank is odor-free!  It may seem like a small thing, but I love to know that the tank has something in it working against all the food and grease that might end up in it while I'm washing dishes.  

If you have been having any issues with odors from your grey tanks, you should give Elemonate a try.  If you are like me, you love to fill your RV with wonderful scents like candles, cleaners (yes, I like the smell of a good cleaner), yummy food, and more.  With Elemonator, you no longer have to work against the not-so-wonderful scent coming from your sink!

Try Elemonate today at TechnoRV.  You won't be disappointed!  While you are there, check out our other tank treatments and cleaners.  We test the majority of our products to be sure we are selling products that work!  If you have a product that you'd like us to consider, please let us know.  For more information, contact us at support@technorv.com or 866-324-7915.  




~ Tami Johnson

Wednesday, November 25, 2015

How to Install the Different Types of RV LED Lights

Plug and Play
Almost all of TechnoRV's LED lights are what we call plug-and-play. By that we mean that to install them, you simply take out the old bulb and replace it with the new LED bulb. This even applies to our replacement fluorescent tubes which don't need the ballast bypassing (more on this later).

Polarity
The only bulb that you have to watch out for is the 921-CW/WW (stick style) bulbs. They are polarity dependent which means that they only work one way around in the light fitting. Unfortunately the 921 wedge style fitting is a bit useless in that it allows you to insert the bulb in either orientation. The good news is that you can't damage it that way. If it doesn't work, just take it out and swap it around. 
Sometimes the wires on the bottom of the bulb can get moved during transit. If your bulb still won't work, look at the end to see if they are in the right place. Also, I know it sounds a little tacky, but you can also try wiggling it a little in the fitting. Sometimes that will do it.



Halogen Installation
To install your halogen LED replacements, first of all you'll have to remove the cover to the fixture. Sometimes they can be a little stiff which can make it more of a challenge. The two main types of fitting have either a plastic or metal ring around the outside, or are all glass (sometimes frosted). Both types are removed by turning the ring or glass a quarter turn to the left.   

Once you've removed the cover, simply pull out the halogen bulb and insert the LED. It's a little tricky getting the prongs in the holes; sometimes you have to wiggle the LED bulb from side to side a little and then you will feel it slide into place. Don't worry about touching the surface of the LED diodes, you won't damage them. TechnoRV has an 
installation video if you'd like to watch that first. 


In some infrequent cases, the halogen fixtures have the holes at the back of the fitting rather than at the side (back facing as opposed to side facing). If you find that you have this variety, don't worry. The pins in the Eco-LED halogen replacement bulbs are designed to be bent. Using some pliers, just gently bend them back and trim them with scissors if they are too long. Alternatively we can exchange the bulbs for the back facing variety. 


Dimmers
If you have dimmers on your halogen bulbs you will need to make sure that you have the right bulb (the regular halogen replacement LED bulbs will dim, but flicker on most dimmers). Unfortunately there are different types of dimmers installed in RV's. The two most common are the variable type which allow a smooth dimming, and the two stage (high / low) dimmers. 

If you have the variable type you'll need the 
GG4-PWM style which have special circuity to provide a smooth dimming while minimizing radio and TV interference (common on the cheaper varieties). The two stage dimmers are common on Newmar's and Alpines, utilize a 6v / 12v switch and require the GG4-ANA bulbs. 

If you find that you've purchased the wrong type, not a problem, just keep the packaging, let us know and we'll work with you to upgrade to the dimmable bulbs. 


Super-Brights


Although most LED bulbs are brighter than their incandescent counter-parts, sometimes when you're doing an installation you find that you'd like even more light. Perhaps the light is over a reading chair, or a diner table or food preparation area. For that reason we have a range of what we call our Super-Brights. They offer 3x the light output of our regular LED bulbs and are available in the halogen (G4), Wedge (921) and Bayonet (BA15) base. If you think that you'd like some of these, let us know and we'll help find you the right bulb.

TechnoRV also sells LED fluorescent tubes, and we will be writing a post on how to install those soon.  You can visit us at www.technorv.com to see our entire line of RV LED lights.

Saturday, November 21, 2015

TST Tire Pressure Monitoring Systems FAQ

TST TPMS system

TechnoRV sells the TST Tire Pressure Monitoring System, and we have received a lot of questions about different aspects of this system. TST systems are the best tire pressure monitoring systems available on the market. This system has won multiple awards and since it was originally designed for the demands of the trucking industry, the RV version is tough, durable, and completely accurate. Here are some frequently asked questions to assist you as you determine what system is right for you, or if you already own a system this may help as well.

How does the TST system work?
In short, high quality sensors are screwed onto your wheel’s valve stem, and the sensors then transmit psi and temperature data to a monitor that sits in your RV or vehicle so that you will be notified should there be any issues with your tires relating to psi and temperature.  The monitor continuously scrolls the psi and temperature of each tire so that at a quick glance you can stay up to date on your tires data. The monitor sits nicely on your dash or comes with a window mount.

How often does the monitor display updated information?
The monitor continuously scrolls and gives the user data at a non-stop pace, however new data is updated from the sensors to the monitor every 2 minutes. The exception to this would be if there was a rapid pressure loss, gradual pressure loss or increased temperature, and in this case an immediate alarm would sound. In this scenario, the sensors would report new data in real time until the data comes back to within the range of acceptance. This unit is accurate to .73 +/- psi.

Do the sensors operate in extreme weather conditions?
Yes, and as you know tire pressure sensors are in some pretty harsh conditions even on a good day.  The sensors are operational in temperatures ranging from -40o to +257 o. The sensors work well in rain, snow, icy conditions, or whatever the weather may bring.  The sensors are sealed with double insulated caps and washers to seal the unit. There are no sensors on the market that can handle nasty conditions like the TST sensors.

Do the 510 sensors work with the 507 systems, or vice versa?
No. The programming algorithms are different, and therefore are not compatible with a different system.

How long do the batteries last?
All battery life is based on full-time usage:
The 510 system has a 5 year battery and reports show that 5-7 years is expected. The 510 system batteries are not user-replaceable.  To replace the batteries you would send the sensor to TST and they would replace the battery, replace the cap and overall service the sensor, then you get it back and are good for another 5-7 years. The cost of this service is $19.95 per sensor.

The 507 systems have user replaceable batteries, and they are good for 10-12 months. When the battery dies you just replace it yourself. These sensors use a 1632 battery, and replacement is very easy.

Which system you decide on is all about customer preference. The only variable is that the 507 system offers both a cap sensor and flow-thru sensor that allow the user to air up tires without taking the sensor off of the valve stem.

How long does the monitor battery last?
A full charge and the monitor is good for a week or two of normal usage. The monitor can be plugged into a 12 volt outlet, or it can be hardwired into power with the provided hardwired kit. I like the fact that the monitor battery is good for a long period and I can mount it for usage with no power cord attached to it.

Does the TST monitor show up good at night time?
The TST monitor has a two staged light system. First, the obvious: when it gets dark the back light comes on automatically. This provides the perfect amount of light for you to view the monitor screen. The second stage is a sensor that senses the vibration of driving and if you are not driving the light will not come on in the dark.

What is a repeater and do I need a repeater?
First, a repeater is a unit that receives data from the sensors, then strengthens the signal and sends it on to the monitor. There is no programming to make the repeater work; it is already set up to communicate with the sensors and monitor. Now for the, “Do you need one?” question. It is not an exact science on whether you need one or not. The general rule of thumb is that if you have a 5th wheel or travel trailer 37 feet or longer then you will likely need a repeater. Also, if you have a motorhome 38 feet or longer, or if you have sensors on a tow vehicle then you will likely need a repeater. It is not just about length though, it is about interference too. There are examples of trailers that have needed repeaters that are shorter than 37 feet because of the materials of the RV, or other interferences. If you are within the limits of the general guidelines, then you can always try the unit without a repeaterand then if you need one you can add it.

How do I install a repeater?
The repeater direct wires to a 12 volt battery source. You can direct connect to a battery, or you can splice it into a 12 volt source. If you are in a diesel pusher with a tow vehicle then you could install the repeater in your engine bay. If you have a 5th wheel, you could install it in the front of the 5th wheel. The repeater is fully sealed and weather proof so you can get creative on where you install it. The goal is for the repeater to be about half way from the monitor to the farthest sensor. We can always help with suggestions if you need assistance.

How much do the sensors weigh and do I need special valve stems?

The 510 sensors weigh about 0.8 of an ounce, and the 507 sensors weigh about 0.45 of an ounce. The weight is not an issue, however it is recommended that you use a metal valve stem. Using any sensor on a rubber valve stem could create issues for that valve stem over time.

If you have any more questions about the TST Tire Pressure Monitoring Systems, contact us at TechnoRV by email at support@technorv.com or by calling us at 866-324-7915.